Terry Mattson, president of Visit Duluth, calls Duluth a cosmopolitan center on the edge of a vast, unspoiled wilderness. "Perched on the rugged cliffs of the world's largest freshwater lake, Duluth's got soul."

People in Duluth often refer to the "lake effect," meaning proximity to Lake Superior makes it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

But, the lake affects everything. It defines Duluth's landscape. On one side is the lake and harbor. On the other, the city sits on the steep hillside, which abruptly rises 600 feet above the lake. The lake draws artists and writers, inspired by its ever-changing moods and residents who get used to the water like people get used to the mountains.

It's profoundly affected Duluth's history. As the most inland port in the country, combined with railroads and once-booming logging and mining industries, at the turn of the 19th century, Duluth was home to more millionaires per capita than any other city in the United States. Today, the lake has made Duluth a popular destination, with 3.5 million tourists per year.

"Lake Superior is many faceted and I think that's why it has such a broad appeal," says Konnie LeMay, editor of Lake Superior Magazine. "There's the absolute magnetic quality of a body of fresh water this size with the attractions people usually connect with an ocean."

Mattson lists a number of water-based attractions: "There's deep-sea sport fishing and attractions like the Great Lakes Aquarium, sightseeing and dining cruises, maritime museums, kayaking and more. Duluth is city of open spaces, a year-round playground with mile after mile of cool blue water, endless trails and exciting events and activities."

The city has capitalized on its location, revitalizing much of the lakeshore. The 4.2-mile Lakewalk, stretches along the shoreline past Leif Erikson Park and the spectacular Rose Garden.  Canal Park has metamorphosed from an unattractive industrial area to the center point of tourism with restaurants, art galleries, hotels and antique shops.

The Aerial Lift Bridge connects the Canal Park with Minnesota Point, a seven-mile pit of land jutting out into Lake Superior. In 1871, residents created a harbor by digging through a section of the narrow point. Several bridge designs later, the current structure, a unique vertical lift bridge, was constructed. Stand at the pier for any amount of time, and the bridge will rise for the ships and sailboats that regularly pass through.

Minnesota Point, also called Park Point, combined with neighboring three-mile Wisconsin Point form the longest freshwater sand bar in the world. At the end of the point's Minnesota Avenue, there is a city park with a beach house and playground. A little further down, a four-mile trail leads hikers through an old-growth pine forest, now a preserved Scientific and Natural Area. Also along the trail, are the remains of settlers' cabins and the old red brick Minnesota Point Lighthouse.

Duluth's former prosperity left its mark in the form of architecture. Many of Duluth's buildings are more than 100 years old. The Glensheen Mansion, on a seven-acre lakeside estate, was built in 1908. The 39-room Jacobean style mansion, with much of the original furnishings, is open for tours. It's also the site of the infamous Congdon murders.

During the summer, the Seven Bridges Road is accessible. From Superior Street, it winds up Occidental Boulevard across Hawk Ridge to Glenwood Avenue and then connects to Skyline Parkway. Named for the stone-arch bridges that cross Amity Creek and Lester River, it's one of the many scenic drives in Duluth.

From 500 feet above Lake Superior, Skyline Parkway stretches across Duluth's hillside offering spectacular views of the city, harbor and water. At the northern end, Hawk Ridge Nature Preserve sees a seasonal average of more than 94,000 migrating raptors.

The North Shore Scenic Railroad provides another vantage point for seeing the area, the 26-mile Lakefront Line. Starting from the historic Depot, the train takes passengers round-trip to the Lester River or Two Harbors.

As a native Duluthian, LeMay sees a lot to love in Duluth, from friendly people to diverse entertainment options. "I appreciate the amazing contrasts and views we have: the vast expanse of lake against the really impressive hillside and the amount of green spaces we have interspersed with both new and old architecture in town."

Contributed by Kelly Harth. Kelly is a freelance writer based out of Duluth, MN.

For Lakeshoredreams.com, the counties grouped in Eastern MN include:

Part of St. Louis County MN, Carlton County MN, Pine Couny MN

Common Interest Communities are a rapidly developing phenomenon happening all over Minnesota’s lake country. As more and more lakeside resorts fold due to lack of revenue and rising operations costs, groups of investors are stepping in and buying these resorts, fixing them up, and turning them into Common Interest Communities. In essence, these communities work the same way that resident associations do. All the residents own the unit they use as well as have equal access to the amenities on the grounds. Upkeep and maintenance of the yards and all the common areas are paid for by either monthly or yearly dues paid to the association. The result is resort style lake living, in a cabin or house that you own, with none of the hassle of the upkeep.

“These communities will be the face of the New Up North,” said Brad Hagfors, broker, associate and consultant for the Excellence Group at Remax Associates Plus, a real estate company based out of Rogers, Minnesota. “One of the main things that keep prospective buyers from buying a cabin is the amount of work they would have to do to keep it up. I’ve been selling lakeshore property for over 25 years and this is exactly what the baby boomers want. They want the lake with as little work as possible. They want a carefree cabin community.”

The Excellence Group at Remax Associates Plus is currently offering The Pines on Jessie Lake, a Carefree Cabin Community located 20 miles north of the Deer River outside of Grand Rapids. There are 7 cabins, 5 of which are currently for sale, which are fully furnished and complete with running water and some with in-house laundry. Residents will have access to a host of amenities including beaches, public boat docks, a playground for the kids, a fish cleaning house, horseshoe pits, and much more. And like most common communities, all the grounds keeping, trash pick up, snow removal, and lawn care will be handled by the community association. 

“There is something you can do all year round, and all you have to do is bring your family, food and your toys,” says Hagfors. “It’s the very definition of carefree cabin living.”

The Pines on Jessie Lake also allows buyers to rent out their cabins to others when they aren’t using it themselves. This is a unique opportunity to share the lake experience with friends as well as have source of secondary income—a real boon for boomers and investors alike.

The face of the Up North experience may be changing, but the desire to get up there is growing ever stronger. And with more and more Carefree Cabin Communities being developed many more people may be able to fulfill that wish.

From the highway, Sturgeon Lake may not look like much. Countless many have passed this small community off of I-35 on their way to Lake Superior, Lake Vermilion or the other traditional lakeshore hotspots further north. But what they may not know is that they don’t have to drive that far to experience the beauty and charm of Northern Minnesota. From grand majestic lakes to quiet, out of the way hideaways, they can have it all, right there in Sturgeon Lake, less than 2 hours north of the Twin Cities. If this sounds appealing, then Majestic Pine Realty will be able to help you find your own piece of Minnesota’s best kept secret.

The Majestic Pine Realty office is easy to find located right off the I-35 exit ramp going toward Sturgeon Lake. Bryan Ketchmark, broker and owner of Majestic Pine Realty is a Sturgeon Lake native and has been operating this office for the past 4 years along side six other full time agents, all of them born and raised in the area. In that short time, Majestic Pine has grown to be a significant force in the market, showing waterfront and recreational properties in the surrounding counties of North Pine, Carlton, and South St. Louis.

“The knowledge and experience we have within this area makes us very appealing to those looking for property here,” says Ketchmark, a former executive banker of 20 years. His experience working in mortgage banking coupled with his real estate background is a real boon for buyers looking for a new lake home. Majestic Pine’s superior service has lead to a great deal of referral business from area professionals, a fact that Ketchmark finds very satisfying.

“While other brokerages claim to be lakeshore specialists, they can’t be because the bulk of their business comes from residential or commercial properties with a few lakeshore properties thrown in,” says Ketchmark. “The majority of the property we sell is waterfront property. We specialize in lake homes and cabins, riverfront property, and undeveloped recreational land.” This focus is especially key considering the number of lakes and rivers that surround the area. Lakes like Grindstone, Sturgeon, Sand, Big and Little Hanging Horn, and Bear are but a sampling of lakes within reach of Sturgeon Lake, not to mention the Kettle, Pine, and Tamarack Rivers are easily within reach.

“There are a wide variety of lakes available ranging from the 40 acre to 2,000 and everything in between,” says Ketchmark. “Whether you’re looking for a nice lake just to relax by or tear around on a jet ski there is a lake out here for you.”

Nature lovers will certainly love the Sturgeon Lake area. Three state forests are easily within reach (Nemadji, Salona, and General Andrews), as well as a number of hiking, horseback riding, and snowmobile trails including the famous Willard Munger and Soo Line trails. Those who fancy a thrilling white water rafting trip will want to visit Jay Cook St. Park.

“We have everything you could want from the up north,” says Ketchmark. “We have deer, bear, everything. You just can’t see it from the highway, but it certainly is out there.” And it appears that people are beginning to take notice.

Ketchmark is confident that they are on the verge of a very strong spring citing that the sales to date this year compared to last are higher. With spring already upon us, more and more people are looking to get back unto the lake. If you’re looking for a lake home in a wonderful area that is close to your home, Sturgeon Lake is worth the look and Majestic Pine can help you get there.

This year marks the 25^th anniversary of the John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon. In Duluth, it’s become a staple winter event. The Beargrease’s nearly 400-mile course, grueling terrain and high standards, makes it the longest and one of the most prestigious races in the lower 48 states. It is also a prequalifier for the Iditarod.

Weather near the lake is unpredictable, and this year is no exception. Due to lack of snow, the race has been postponed about a month from its original date.

The race starts at Ordean School at 1:00 p.m. on February 25. Around 4,000 people are expected to watch the event in Duluth and 3,000 more along the trail.

Along the course there are nine checkpoints with random vet checks on the dogs. At two of the checkpoints, teams are required to take mandatory six-hour rest periods. Animals receive comprehensive veterinarian evaluations during these rests.

Veterinarians come from everywhere from Alaska to Australia. “These vets are unique; it’s not just any vet. It is sports medicine for dogs,” explains Linda Nervick, vice president of the race board.

The mid-distance race covers 150 miles, ending at Tofte. The marathon covers almost 400 miles of rugged terrain with the trail heading up past Grand Marais and back to Duluth ending at Billy’s on Tischer Road on February 28.

Beginning at 5:00 p.m. is the second annual Red Lantern Party to welcome the final teams across the finish line. When dog sled teams were used regularly to deliver the mail and other goods, it was customary to leave a red lantern burning to signal a musher was still out on the trail. The Beargrease will continue that tradition by lighting a red lantern at dusk and leaving it burning until the last musher arrives, who will then be presented with the lantern.

The race is named in honor of John Beargrease, son of an Anishinabe chief. He and his family lived at the edge of Beaver Bay, the first settlement along the North Shore. At the time, the trail between Duluth and Thunder Bay, Ontario, was only a footpath.

The North Shore continued to be settled, but the remoteness and unpredictable weather of the region prevented regular mail delivery. John and his brothers, who frequently traveled along their Lake Shore Trail trap line, began carrying mailbags in their packs.

Between 1879 and 1899, the brothers delivered mail on a weekly basis between Two Harbors and Grand Marais. With limited equipment and heavy packs, the trail, which varies dramatically in elevation, was a challenge. John traveled by canoe, horses and boats, but was best known for his trips by dog sled. Traveling with only four dogs and a sled that resembled a toboggan, John’s fastest time rivals today’s teams with 16 dogs and advanced equipment along the same course.

Mary Black, a long-time race participant says the Beargrease racecourse is very hilly, especially from Finland to the Sawbill checkpoint. “It’s constantly up and down, but it’s beautiful.”

She and her husband Mark, former Duluthians, consider the Beargrease their hometown race. The couple moved to Cook County a couple of years ago. Mark won first place in the 2005 marathon and will race again this year.

What Mary enjoys most about dog sledding is the bond between her and the dogs, which they breed themselves. “It’s seeing these little puppies you hold when they are just minutes old and watching them grow up and then do so well.”

Mushers need to be dedicated to their dogs. The Alaskan Husky requires a lot of attention, exercise and a strict diet.

Mary says they don’t get much time for much physical training for themselves because they spend so much time training the dogs. “We are out doing chores in the morning first thing. After we feed the dogs, we feed ourselves, and then we are going outside and running with the dogs.” A short run for the day is 25 to 30 miles and a long run is around 60 miles. 

All Beargrease events are open to the public. On January 26, the gala event will feature guest speaker Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod. The Cutest Puppy Contest is held January 27 at Fitger’s.

At 4:30 p.m. February 23, kids are welcome to come and meet “John Beargrease” in the Fitger’s courtyard. Presented by the Minnesota Historical Society, the presentation is designed to provide information on his life and the importance of his work. The week of the race, there are banquets to welcome competitors and also to honor winners.

“I like the fact that this race attracts unique people, from the volunteers to our guest speakers, the mushers, and, of course, the dogs,” says Nervick.

There are numerous areas for volunteers to get involved, from assisting the veterinarians at the checkpoints to answering phones at headquarters. Opportunities are listed online at www.beargrease.com.

Nervick says volunteering for the race has changed her life. She now has the opportunity to work with Will Sieger on his next expedition. “It also gives me a strong sense of community.”

The Beargrease struggled financially in the past, but Nervick says it’s now a thriving event with healthy sponsorship. Companies like Subaru, the National Geographic Channel, and Johnsonville have joined with local businesses to sponsor the event. “I have found incredible support from the community in everything from donations to the gala dinner.”

Kelly Harth is a freelance writer based out of Duluth, MN
Photo provided by Visit Duluth and Seaquest Photography.

Tofte, MN

There are 226 permanent residents of Tofte Township. Yet there are thousands who visit annually, envious at the lives these residents lead in and around what is arguably the most geographically beautiful location in all of Minnesota.

Located 78 miles northeast of Duluth, Tofte is a destination noteworthy for all there is to do near the town. Tofte isn't designed to reward sedentary folk; it's geared toward those who want to make a break from suburban and urban routines and actively participate in all there is to see and do in the outdoors.

Located in Cook County, Tofte's first inhabitants were likely the Dahkotah Indians. According to the Cook County Historical Society, the first European explorers to travel by canoe along the North Shore, around 1623, was likely Etienne Brule who was searching for a water passageway to the West.

During the 1700s most of the activity along the North Shore was devoted to satisfy what seemed to be an insatiable demand for animal pelts. The center of activity was Grand Portage, to the north of Tofte, where pelts were sold or exchanged for supplies at a trading post and stockade owned by the North West Company. In the early 1800s trading diminished, and in 1821 the Hudson Bay Company absorbed the North West Company, moving the majority of the trading to the northern and western parts of Canada.

In the 1850s the economic interests of the area shifted from animal pelts to minerals. Early European settlers focused on pulling silver from the region. It was actually iron ore that eventually dominated the minerals prospecting around Tofte. That successful mining led to the railroad being built from the iron rage to Two Harbors, south of Tofte. The 1880 census showed Cook County with 65 residents. By 1900 there were 810.

According the Cook County Historical Society, "Hans Engelsen, an emigrant from Norway, settled on an abandoned homestead near Carlton Peak in 1893. In 1896, he opened the post office with the name Tofte, named after a community in Norway. Tofte means, ‘seat of a boat' or in the Viking ship days, a ‘helmsman's seat.'"

For many years the only supplies and mail came to Tofte was via steamers from Duluth such as the America and Dixon. With few docks or harbors along the shore, passengers and freight were transported by skiff to the ships waiting offshore. In rough weather these small boats were sometimes overturned, or swamped, and all cargo and souls went into the frigid Superior water.

The opening of Highway 61 from Duluth in the 1940s brought Tofte to where it is today: a township devoted to hospitality and a surrounding economy deeply tied to logging.

Visitors to Tofte must see the North Shore Commercial Fishing Museum. The Museum, located at the intersection of Highway 61 and County Road 2, features stories of the people who fished Lake Superior, their skiffs, and the various tools of early commercial fishing.

Activities abound near Tofte. Lutsen Mountain offers an alpine slide during the summer months that takes riders down a ½ mile slide track aboard a specially built toboggan. For bicyclists there's the North Shore Touring Trail. Not far to the north of Tofte are a series of entry points into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. Folks visiting Tofte ought to visit Carlton Peak, the second highest peak in Minnesota. The Peak is accessible from the Superior Hiking Trail. Once atop, spectacular views are guaranteed of the Superior National Forest and Lake Superior, including Taconite Harbor.

Come winter, put the skis on because Tofte's visitors have access to 220 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails just a ski pole thrust away. 10 minutes from Tofte is the Lutsen Mountains Ski Area with the best skiing between the Rocky Mountains and Vermont. Dog sledding is increasing with popularity and February travelers won't want to miss the John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon that runs along the North Shore.

38 miles to the south of Tofte is the Split Rock Lighthouse that was erected in 1905 after six ships were lost in a November storm. This lighthouse guided ships from 1910 through 1969.

Tofte is figuratively engulfed by wilderness. The Superior National Forest surrounds almost all of Tofte along with the nearby Temperance River State Park. Inside the Park is the narrow Temperance River Gorge with its rushing waters and falls make it an irresistible photo opportunity.

White-tailed deer, black bears, moose, beaver, and wolves are numerous. Don't be surprised to see the smallest of North American bears, the black bear. Most are timid and are unlikely to attack humans. One of the Tofte-area's most efficient predators is the lynx known for its compact body and wide, padded feet.

Also, don't be surprised to see a moose in the forests nearby. A bull moose grows to around 7 feet tall and weighs between 1,500 and 1,800 pounds. In the fall, during mating season, visitors should avoid these large, near-sighted creatures as they wonder in search of cows. Attracted to noise, bull moose are fearless and will charge the naïve traveler so those straying beyond Tofte's comforts are encouraged to keep a safe distance.

Back in Tofte, Bluefin Bay is one of the most notable Lake Superior resorts. Their rooms have awe-inspiring views of the Lake. Further, once inside the resort, a massage is just a phone call away. AmericInn Lodge and Suites is also available to Tofte visitors.

There's no shortage of dining options in Tofte. Coho Café, Bakery and Deli offers a litany of baked goods and a cornucopia of coffee drinks. Breakers Bar and Grill has not only a great view of Lake Superior, but also a mix of hamburgers, sandwiches, and spirits.

Contributed by Jason Admunson. Jason is a freelance writer based out of St. Anthony Village, MN.