Located in Itasca County, adjacent to the Mississippi River and her headwaters, is the city of Grand Rapids. Its nearly 8,000 residents live near fantastic woodlands and almost 1,000 lakes and ponds, which accounts for its popularity as a vacation destination. The city is the region's shopping center and has a long history of hospitality dating back to just past Minnesota's founding in the late 1850s.
The first European settlers and missionaries praised the area around Grand Rapids for its massive fields of wild rice and abundant fowl. Yet it was the pine forests that began luring men into the region to build the first settlements and would eventually create a booming lumber industry.
Itasca County was one of the nine counties designated by the early Minnesota legislature. In 1850 U.S. Census listed 97 inhabitants in Itasca County, but even that low figure is suspect. An accurate headcount would have been nearly impossible with the pioneers and nomadic trappers living in the woods. These inhabitants lived in an area that surveyors estimated was between 5,800 square miles and 20,000 square miles, or 5 to 17 times the size of Rhode Island. Ten years later, in 1860, the U.S. Census pegged the number of residents of Itasca County at only 51.
By the 1870 lumbering had reached Itasca County. The lumberjacks needed supplies and the most feasible way was via flatboats on the Mississippi. Small steamships were rare and the water was too shallow to support these craft. Consequently it was flatboats, powered by strong men with long poles pushing to the bottom of the river, which proved to be the most efficient at moving bulky cargo into the woods.
Six men would make a few miles an hour unless the boat got hung up along a sandbar or other impediment. While slow and uncertain, flatboats proved more reliable and a more comfortable ride, than the stump-strewn roads of the day.
In 1878 the steamer White Swan began hauling passengers and freight regularly between Aitkin and Grand Rapids. Avoiding logs, rocks, and sandbars became an art form for the crew as they traveled the meandering, roughly north-south, 67-mile long trip atop the Mississippi River.
Grand Rapids became a stopping point along the Mississippi River, according to James Rottsolk in his book Pines, Mines, and Lakes : The Story of Itasca County Minnesota. These stopping points were storage places for lumber equipment, food, and whiskey. "More people were passing through Grand Rapids; they often needed someplace to sleep," wrote Rottsolk. "And more people were living in the little town; they needed groceries and supplies, too. Moreover, the lumberjacks in camp usually worked up a thirst that even the sparkling clear waters of Itasca's lakes and streams couldn't quench. Consequently, 'stopping places' were soon built in Grand Rapids and at intervals along the main-traveled tote roads."
Due to timber, Grand Rapids was growing quickly. In 1872 her first permanent building was erected. Its log walls and canvas roof lasted the winter before a more permanent roof could be added. A hotel arrived the same year. By 1892 Grand Rapids became the county seat while the city prospered from the expanding lumber industry.
Now Grand Rapids serves as the southern gateway to the Chippewa National Forest. Once inside the great woods there are ample opportunities for hiking, biking, snowmobiling, fishing, and hunting. If a more passive approach to the wilderness is in the itinerary, the Edge of the Wilderness National Scenic Byway from Grand Rapids north to Effie is a showstopper for its beauty. The 47-mile drive showcases spectacular scenery and historic sites.
In Grand Rapids the woods and its ties to the forest industry are hard to escape. The Forest History Center brings the visitor back to 1900. At this museum white pine logging camp complete with cook shack, bunkhouse, blacksmith shop, and horse barn are recreated. Treetop viewing is available courtesy of a 100-foot fire tower and there's nearly 5 miles of accessible trails adjacent to the Mississippi River.
A more modern-day enterprise awaits those that tour the Blandin Paper Mill. Blandin employs 850 people and indirectly provides 2,000 jobs in and around Grand Rapids. Free guided tours are available, but the hours vary by season so be sure to check in advance.
For golfers there are 72 holes at four different courses. Each course is located within 15 minutes of Grand Rapids and are unique not just for their well-maintained layouts, but a distinct north woods feel.
The city offers a full complement of overnight lodging. From inexpensive motels, to family resorts, to full-service hotels Grand Rapids offers numerous choices. Visitors desiring an experience closer to nature can choose from 10 campgrounds near Grand Rapids.
There are many water routes for canoeists and kayakers that begin near Grand Rapids for those seeking paddle time. Fabulous canoe trips can be had at the Prairie River, the Big Fork River, and the Mississippi River making Grand Rapids the start of many memorable adventures.
Contributed by Jason Admunson. Jason is a freelance writer based out of St. Anthony Village, MN.
